Annot, Crack Paradise, Trad Climbing and Bouldering on Sandstone

Yes we went back to Annot again, last year we were left with good memories from this beautiful place and the fun that we had with traditional climbing, sport climbing and bouldering. This vacation was concentrated around trad climbing and doing a little bit of Bouldering.

We explained last time where Annot is and what you can do to enjoy.

http://jan-san-climbing.blogspot.com/2017/05/annot-has-it-all-sandstone-crack.html

See the main crag.

Although it was chilly in April, the weather became quickly warm, specially when you walked up the path from the train station to La Chambre du Roi. We did this multiple times, so you will get well trained legs and will loose some weight with 15kG gear on your back. Hi Hi.
We started at La Cave again but this time no crowds of people. Super. Very nice easy crack starters like Adam and Eve to get ready for harder stuff. La Voie du Sage 6a+ but has a quit physical offwidth part. Look at the picture with the rope against the wall with 250-300 meters below you.

The other day we went to La Vire Inter and did some harder stuff. For Example Spitalgie 6C, it has big holes and grips but knotting the threads in it as protection is exhausting, puwh.

Mettrez Ca Sur M'ANNOT 6B

One day we went to Le Point de Vue. A very scary view into the deep. Even the trad 4+ seems to be harder because of this. Bouldering at Secteur Requim du Block, not that easy to find if you don't know the area.But nice weather and great boulders make it easily to forget the effort that it took.

Again we went to Offwidth Paradise but some of the routes were still wet, so I did Fastoche Diedre 6b+? I think it is harder. So I left some skin behind. In the afternoon we went even more up to Les Portettes where we both did the popular trad route called Les Portettes Face, nice hand jam, but slightly becoming to wear out.

The best we saved for last day in Annot, at La Vire Inter we started early in the morning since it would become warm that day, I spotted some days earlier a nice trad route  that appealed me a lot called Vingt 2, 7a. Starting with a small crack than passing some blocks going to bombe roof part with just some holes, Puwh that last part was hard.

San also proofed herself by doing 6a trad route called X-Files, super proud on her achievement even with a neck hernia.

Hope to come back soon again.

Valencia Climbing

Just a short update from us.
In April we did a small climbing vacation in the area of Valencia again.
The weather forecast was not super and it was definitely colder than expected.
Every day we tried to find a warm climbing spot in the sun so we travelled to different area's and crags. Still the wind was cold in some of the gorges.


Climbing crags that we visited:
Bunol
Altura
Jerica
Borriol
Cucalla
El Castellet.


In the late afternoon or evening we drove back to our apartment and made ourselves a nice dinner wit some wine, the topper this week: Lemon Chicken slow cooked in the oven for 2 hours, jummy.

Ruhrtal Katla Cave

Last weekend in cold and wet Germany we went for some bouldering.
As every year we enjoy the surroundings of the Ruhrtal and in particular the Avalonia area.
San was going for a hiking tour and I tried some boulders in the Katla Cave where I found some dry spots. Around noon even the sun appeared which made it more enjoyable.

Next day we went to one of our favourite Climbing Gyms called Bergwerk in Dortmund.

http://www.kletterhalle-bergwerk.de/bergwerk/deutsch/klettern-und-bouldern-in-dortmund.html

In comparison to many Dutch climbing gyms you can do lead climbing on all the routes if you want, and for crack addicted climbers like us there are even a couple of crack routes that are very enjoyable to do.

After finishing your climbing session you can have a very luxury massage shower. Never saw that before in other gyms. Something other gyms can learn from Hi Hi.

INTO THE WILD 2

Is there Wild In the Netherlands? No!! Yes!!

Like last year, we headed again into the forest to live some adventure.

After the heavy storms in the Netherlands a lot trees had been falling down and there were serious warnings of falling branches called widow makers. So the Dutch authority advised not to go into the woods. Ok? So we were prepared to be cautious and be careful with our route and picking our camping place.

Again the circumstances were harsh, a winter snow on some areas and drawling foggy rain making the whole area wet.

First thing: Making shelter to prevent becoming too wet and making fire to get some heath

During the day and evening we had a foggy rain but later the evening we had even some sunshine
Next: Chopping Wood to get thru the day and evening it took me 3 hours.























New thing we learned; cooking on open wood fire. San sat down and became the "fire master" and she cooked water for our thee and coffee and started to bake our bread in our special prepared "Dutch Oven" (not realy but an old pan from our home kitchen) After that she made  with chicken legs and a bunch of vegetables a great diner. Whauw!!

Late evening the sky broke open and the stars were visible, directly the temperature dropped to -3 deg C.

Early morning we lit up the fire and made thee and coffee and some bacon and eggs. Jummy!

Carefully breaking down our frozen tent and tarp we headed home again. Our clothes smelling of burned wood. Hi Hi.

See you next time San and Jan!

Costa Blanca 17' 18'

Hi,

Yes indeed we went to Spain again this year. The rainy, cold days in the Netherlands did us again decide to head off to get some lovely sunshiny warm weather in Spain. I was struck with a terrible cold cough and San was still facing her neck injuries.

This did not kept us from travelling to our winter location to do some sport and trad climbing.

The first week we pushed ourselves hard in new routes.

The second week of our holiday it was planned that the family of San's sister was joining us so this year we decided to rent a bigger and more luxury house with an open fireplace and an outside kitchen. Great!

Trad in Sierra de Toix Este

Trad in Vall de Guadar

We visited some new area's and learned again that it takes some time to get used to the new styles of climbing. We enjoyed the first week with climbing adventurous trad routes and the second week climbing some easier routes with the youngsters. Every evening we had to collect wood for the woodstove and fireplace.

New Crag's visited:
Tallat Roig: Near the Alzira city, great crag with multipitch and single pitch routes Trad and Sport.
Bolulla: Raco Roig left side: always spectacular views of the Barranco of Bolulla area.

Tallat Roig



Barranco de Bolulla



San in Guadalest

Delicious Food; Fish and Paella from the Woodstove!!!

Life is good!!!!!!!

Climbing with the youngsters!







Scarpa Mago Climbing Shoe Review

Hi,

We just wanted to give our review on the Scarpa Mago's that we bought somewhere back in 2009. We both bought them during a sale in a climbing gym in Rotterdam in the Netherlands.

The size might have been slightly on the small side but they became quickly more comfortable when using them. As soon as the noose became a little less edgy and round, immediately the nice down turn nose became very accurate as well as indoors and outdoor routes. The nice stiff sole gave good support to stand on the smallest foot holds and giving us a kind feeling of being more in control on the rock. More and more they became our best shoes ever for indoor and outdoor climbs regardless the type of routes and rock. The upper layer of leather and the tow nose of rubber gave excellent protection when climbing traditional cracks. Great feet jamming! It might sound strange but we became very attached to them and have resoled them a couple of times which did not give any disadvantages.

Now after 8 years of service and the nose showing big holes and although the upper leather part is still looking fine we regretfully think we have to say goodbye to them.

San bought already here new pair of Mago’s and continues to use them.

Thanks Scarpa for making these magnificent shoes. 1. Scarpa Mago, 2. Scarpa Mago, 3. Scarpa Mago

San on the Scarpa Mago in 2013

8 years of Great Service

Sport Climbing in Kalymnos 2017

Yes we went back!

After last year’s very nice climbing holiday in Kalymnos we decided to go back again.

We always enjoy the Greek sun and warm conditions in October. The only drawback are the huge climbing crowds during this period and it looked that it has become worse. Nevertheless we found ourselves again in less popular places where the rock is almost still unspoiled and sometimes we even find remarkable nice routes at extraordinary places.

We had to start easy this year as San is still suffering from a neck hernia and did not have much climbing training this year. She said that she would do only top-roping this vacation. We started at Poets and Zeus with some easy 5’^s and 6’^es where she quickly started flashing the routes. She even on-sighted some routes.

Next days we drove with our tiny scooter to a lot of places like Summertime, Rockland, Palionisos Redwall, The beach, Saint Potis, Prophitis Andreas and again we went also to Telendos.

One of the highlights of this vacation were our meetings with the “Famous” ladies from 365roadtrip! https://365roadtrip.blogspot.nl/

We saw their Van just standing outside Masouri in which they travel around the south of Europe for one year. We decided to do some climbing days together and we had great fun and enjoyed each other company. The ladies where well trained now and were aiming for higher rates routes, colognette and tufa overhang climbing. We helped them getting some more experience in this during the following days, it was great fun.

We will come back again.



Leaving Rockland with our Scooter



Putting in quick draws 7a at Sea Breeze



Not that easy

San in action

Maybe too early for this kind of work

Jan in Aboneros el Chilli 7B at Pescatore Telendos

Happy People back from Telendos